S0239 Murphys

This pub seems fairly accessible for something so late in my visits - and indeed, it was a nice round number, which I'll get to shortly - but I'd been sort of "keeping" it, intending to visit it with someone specific who lives nearby.

However, they were busy and I needed to get it ticked off, so I'll have to come back with them - for once committing myself to a revisit before I've even written the whole writeup!

Oddly quiet after a series of absolutely rammed carvery spots; they were doing food here too - my next visit wasn't incredibly busy either; so either I'd come after an earlier rush, or the diners of Rathmines eat later.

This turned out to be my 900th, rolling register basis, Dublin licence tick. Considering it's a mix of an older city pub with elements of modernity and suburban pubs to it; it's a fairly apt pub for a "big number visit", even if I never planned it as such. 

1001237 The Morgue

I almost baked myself to death in this pub; but had that happened they wouldn't have been able to lay me out on a slab here - not without a time machine at least.

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As I mentioned when putting a photo up on Instagram, sometimes pub nicknames stick and owners just roll with it. The Templeogue Inn is never called that anymore, but instead The Morgue - a reference to the use of the pubs cold room for storage of dead bodies under Victorian legislation.

At this stage, with only The Morgue name above the door and on the pubs website, is it even the Templeogue Inn anymore? The name does still appear on the side of the pub, but realistically The Morgue is the name now.

It was a warm day to begin with, but I could swear the heating was on in the front bar of the pub, which was busy enough with racing punters. A Kinnegar Scraggy Bay tap is a rare but welcome sight in a bar like this (common enough in the lounge, of course) and that kept me cool enough during my trip.

July 2025 Revenue register update

Nothing*, again. Actually the smallest update I've ever processed.

 

*(well, there's a new liquor licenced boat, for Howth Cliff Cruises, but I'm dropping boats as they completely fail the quack test of being pubs...) 

S2261 Spawell / D'Arcy McGees

Getting to this pub felt like going to urbex somewhere, as I entered the Spawell compound through a hole in the fence.

This wasn't planned, but poor bus connections meant I walked much of the way from the previous pub, and this gap took half a kilometre off the distance. 

I had been here once before, many many many years ago, as an underage teenager, not drinking - a long story involving a long wait for the AA to come take a look at someones car - but I decided that didn't count as a visit. As far as I can remember, the interior looks completely different to well over 20 years ago - what a surprise!

I was possibly the only person in the place not there for carvery, and it felt like half of Tallaght and Templeogue were both there for that. There's even a more school dining room style section of the place. But this is a pub, with a pub licence (despite being in the middle of a sports complex) and I'd presume when the carvery demand dies off it feels more like a normal pub too.

S2636 Penny Black

A large suburban pub with awkward public transport access... however did this end up so close to the end of the list?

If you approach this from the South, you may see the hulk of a building within the Castletymon Shopping Centre which looks like an 70s estate pub. This isn't the Penny Black, this is the former library of all things, which has been replaced by a much more modern building. 

The Penny Black is actually from the late 80s, in a more traditional looking building around the side of the shopping centre, complete with a small clock tower - a feature a few pubs from then had. It is also quite traditional inside, albeit with mostly an open plan layout like most "newer" pubs ("newer" meaning "about as old as me" is a bit of a stretch; but when there's so many 100+ year old pubs around, they are newer).

There's a sort-of "museum" snug section near the front, mostly consisting of photos, covers Dublin trams amongst other things - despite this pub not being terribly near either the original or current trams serving Tallaght; and due to that, it was mostly O'Connell Street stuff that I remember seeing!

S2818 House Dublin

Another "Cian goes ticking on Sundays" problem venue, as this only opens for brunch on Sundays and I don't think opens on Bank Holidays at all; and the first two times I tried it fell down at this hurdle.

Third time lucky actually worked in this instance, and I was admitted and seated at the bar - albeit I was offered tables, it was middlingly busy and I felt they may want those for diners rather than drinkers.

This isn't really my kind of bar - cocktails and southside partying - but I don't think I'd have fit in during its past era when this was a hotel with a nightclub rather than a hotel with a large bar-restaurant instead.

1015609 'Ohana

Dublin's only tiki bar, and also possibly the conventionally licenced bar with the most restrictive, yet regular, opening hours in the city - being open Thursday, Friday and Saturday from early evening/late afternoon only. I do a lot of my ticking trips on Sundays (for quieter pubs) and usually try end them by about 8, so this evaded me for years as a result.

It doesn't have fake rain, a feature of many tiki bars (provided by anything from lighting effects through to a hose in some places) which is allegedly designed to encourage drinkers to stay longer; but the Irish weather obliged with the real stuff, so I did actually stay for a further cocktail.

In addition the cocktail menu - of the types of cocktails you get in tiki bars, so don't necessarily expect the classics that other cocktail bars do - there's an immense rum selection here. The current claim on the menu is of over 150 different bottles available

1012980 Irish Whiskey Museum

This independent (as in non distillery owned) whiskey museum opened a number of years ago; but I assumed you had to go on a tour and just hadn't got around to arranging one.

However, when passing to go somewhere else, I noticed a sign suggesting you could come in to watch the rugby - which wasn't actually on that day - and headed up.

There is a very small bar here that is before the ticket desk, and which you do not need to pay for a ticket to visit. It has even less taps than you might imagine for its diminutive size, but has a huge whiskey list - many of them at exceptionally competitive prices.

I didn't go for anything adventurous, just having a Black Bush for the same price you'd pay for Bushmills (white) anywhere nearby; and this was far from the only good value option there.

I wouldn't try get in here with a crowd - you simply won't fit - but it's definitely worth a look if going as a couple or on your own.

1012867 Temple Bar Inn

This hotel has one of the largest bar/restaurants I've seen in a newer hotel; and when I visited, basically no other customers - two English women, hotel residents, were finishing up and left while I was there.

Part of this is that there is no indication from outside that the bar is even here, and indeed initially there was no bar when the hotel first opened - it bought in the licence from N0741 Edenmore House a year or so after opening.

The hotel surrounds the Tesco on the ground floor of its building - the reception, restaurant and bar are under the Tesco and the rooms above. You need to go down the stairs or lifts immediately after entering, and may need to tell the security guard what you're doing - but there are no problems going in.

If you really need to meet someone in/near Temple Bar, and don't like how busy everywhere else is, this should be perfect - until enough people have realised it's here, I guess.

1018953 Fallon and Byrne

The first of a very small number of cases of a high-end foodstore using a pub licence to cover multiple reasons; Fallon & Byrne have theirs to cover off-licence sales in the food store as well as wine sales and their twin restaurants.

I went for the cheaper, less formal option of having a pizza in the downstairs wine cellar, where they also have a few Irish independent brewery options to drink as well as sometimes very low corkage (€1 off-peak) on wines from the shop.

A mortadella pizza isn't something I'd thought of doing at home, but it worked well; and overall this wasn't incredibly pricey. I may go back.

1019160 Hampton by Hilton, Chancery Street

Rather like the toilets of the near-ish N0072 Chancery Inn pub (now closed), you need to be buzzed in here.

I could have made a comparison to the Hacienda or the VCC; but people actually *want* to go to drink in those. Here it feels more like somewhere you go to drink by accident of having stayed in the hotel.

It's a very generic hotel lobby bar, albeit quite a big one. You actually also need to be buzzed in to the toilets too, because they're really not set up for outside drinkers - but they do allow them. If they like the look of you, I guess.

1019365 The Local, UCD

"Wait! Students union bars don't count! You've said that here somewhere before..."

Well, for whatever commercial reason, the new foodhall in UCD Village is run by the Wright group; and they need a liquor licence for that; and have a 7 Day Ordinary like anyone else would. Also, to try drum up trade during quieter periods for students, the foodhall and its bar are advertised to the public.

However, if you're over 25 and  go there during the college year (or probably summer when there's language students around either), expect to feel *very* out of place. 

The bar itself isn't that big, and is fairly cheap; with the stand out attraction of the foodhall being the burger place, Mikeys; which was really quite good.

S0394 The Horse & Hound

This is the Cabinteely pub, and not the Northside pub of a very similar name. In that writeup, I comment on how "Horse & Hound" is a very English type pub name; and realistically that's one of the most notable things here.

I've repeatedly mentioned about how having little to write about a pub is almost always a good thing - local pubs that are solid parts of their community often don't need anything distinguishing about them. 

The pub hasn't got a website, or any active social media and doesn't turn up in media reports for anything happening there (again, this is almost always a good thing - newspapers don't often report on positive events in pubs these days!). Pretty much all you'll find on searching is some local coverage of it reopening in 2021 as pandemic restrictions lifted.

A perfectly functional local pub, one I'll almost certainly never go back to as it's quite difficult to access if you're not a local. And there's absolutely nothing wrong with that. 

S0284 Druids Chair

Another awkward pub to get to, up a hill, served by an irregular bus which feels like it's having significant trouble even fitting on the roads.

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The pub is laid out as a single room but with some dividers, one of which in particular - glass with what I can best describe as fronds - gives it a very 60s feel. That is high end 60s, not the formica horrors of that era that thankfully rarely remain. I did sort of expect a Connery-era Bond to sidle out from the seats in that area.

All in all this was quite a nice pub, but the difficulty of getting here; and the implausibility that I'd ever be able to afford to live nearby, mean I will probably never be back,

S0307 Haddington House Hotel

A Victorian townhouse hotel with a cocktail bar and a nice sun terrace, this was again a fairly expensive drink experience; having a Negroni to achieve my tick.

There's been a hotel here since the 1930s, with the buildings having previously been a "ladies college" since the late 1910s; and a private dwelling before that.

 

The cocktail bar is nice, the staff were very good; but my wallet was slightly tender after the visit. But despite Dun Laoghaire having a reasonable number of pubs, there isn't really as good a view over the harbour from anywhere other drinking venues except here, the previous expensive visit... and the Wetherspoons. So wallet emptying may be repeated. 

S0962 Hartleys

There's been a series of "lasts" as I come towards the end of the list - last pub or hotel in this chain or that mostly. This instead is the last of a type - this bar operates under a Railway Refreshment Rooms licence.

In theory, these are only meant to serve customers with tickets for a 10 mile distance; but this is effectively neither checked nor enforced; and anyway - any Leap card can become a ticket for this when tagged on (However, when Good Friday drinking was restricted, any Railway Refreshment Rooms that were actually open did check for tickets)

This was, I believe, the final 'refreshment room' actually operated by Irish Rail, under their Network Catering division as Brasserie na Mara; but when Irish Rail ceased doing it's own catering, the restaurant closed with it. 

Hartleys opened here in ~2008 and has traded since, with drinkers accommodated on a terrace and diners inside in the Victorian railway dining room. The drinks are exceptionally expensive, even for Dun Laoghaire; but there is often live music and the terrace is an interesting place to sit and view the harbour, so there may still be a reason to go here for some.

S3046 The Swallows

While I still had my driver, I decided to get a pub that would require multiple bus-changes to get to knocked off the list.

The Swallows must be the newest (and second-last, I believe) 'grocery pub' in Dublin; but like the other - the White House in Baldoyle - the shop is separate from the pub; in this case sharing only the front door and much of the signage.

The pub is of the big single room / open plan layout common of 90s suburban pubs, although it looks to me like the floor area can be halved with a moving wall, presumably to make it more manageable when quiet.

S4405 The Address Citywest

A week or so before this visit, I had stayed in the Sligo sister hotel of this, also called The Address - and had snarked at the bar/restaurant being called North, as I wouldn't consider Sligo to be particularly Northern.

On arriving here I found that the bar is again called North. They're all called North in this chain, which is from Donegal and has what I'd consider a legitimate claim to the term. All's good.

The hotel here is an old country house with an added bedroom wing; with the bar and restaurant in what I assume are some genuine outbuildings. There's a more restaurant-y bit, but you can drink there; and what seemed to be a bar or function room section that was quite loud. The outdoor area is very nice in the right weather, even if the plastic sheep are a bit of an odd choice...

There is a bit of housing being developed nearby here, so this is likely to be their local, as such; considering none were ever developed in the bulk of Citywest and both S3757 Browns Barn and the pub in Fortunestown has closed.

S1661 Green Isle Hotel

I'd been to this hotel a few times before, using the conferencing facilities - most notably, many years ago, an all-hands meeting in work telling us that a certain % were being laid off because the CEO needed a new 911 "times were tough"; but I'd never drunk here prior to this visit. 

The bar of the Green Isle is large, and was busy and even slightly raucous when we visited - this certainly stands in for the lack of any pub in this bit of Clondalkin. 

The hotel itself seems to be extremely popular with trades/builders from down the country using it as their Dublin base - there are even signs asking you to clean your boots when coming in from the carpark (incidentally, one of the worst designed / tightest carparks I've ever been in); so I suspect the bar is also busy with that custom on weekday/Sunday evenings.

It is still, however, clearly a hotel bar without much attempt to make it feel more like a pub - for instance, it is accessed behind reception.

Revenue register update, June 2025

Nothing of note this month, not even in nerdy details.

S3226 Maldron Hotel Newlands Cross

Dalata hotels don't really seem to look at their bars as major profit centres, with them often being very constrained or even closed; so I was vaguely expecting another bottle of Heineken in a lobby like my most recent Dalata visit.

But no, there is actually a fairly big bar here, open to the public up until the mid evening. It isn't particularly interesting, but there isn't another pub in this end of Clondalkin - well, not until the next hotel - so it may be useful for weekends.

S4515 Louis Fitzgerald Hotel

There are seven hotels along the Naas Road in Dublin, starting from the Red Cow and working outwards.

The first two (the Red Cow and the Ibis) and the seventh (City West) are currently not open to the public, and the Ibis only had a residents bar licence anyway; but the other four are fully trading; and despite having been at events in some of them, I'd never drunk in any of them.

So, with the help of a driver, I got all four done in fairly rapid succession.

First up is the Louis Fitzgerald, a very rare case of a hotel named after a living owner - excluding family surnames on some hotels that is. Built beside his longer standing Joel's restaurant, there is a further restaurant in the lobby here; but there is also a normal bar.

Louis has an admitted reputation as hoarder/collector, and it seems the hotel he's named after himself gets the best goodies - his GB£80,000 1904 Wolseley 6hp

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This is the last Fitzgerald Group premises for me, for now - Louis is likely to add some more.

1016097 Mackenzies

This is the last of the "random womans name" Paddy McKillen Jr restaurants for me to tick, and it's just as generic as them all. Except here, you really do need to eat - there isn't an option for a bar booking; and indeed you do need to book because walk-ins were not being taken on the night I was here.

I seriously doubt I'll be back.

S0257 Buglers Ballyboden House

I'm not sure there's a current pub name I have to try so hard not to misspell - the Colosseum in Walkinstown no longer holding that name, thankfully. "Bulgers" seems to scan better, despite Bugler being a semi common surname, and a type of musician at that. I may just be remembering a horrific incident that was heavily reported when I was a kid, though.

There's more than a few newspaper archive references to "Bulgers" as well, covering both the pre- and post-spellcheck eras of newspaper editing (the pub has been Buglers since 1954) so at least it's not only me.

Another packed pub - three in a row, albeit they aren't all that far apart - I ended up in a corner of the bar rather than in the fairly recently renovated lounge, or the covered outdoor area so new you can see the demolition of the old one on Streetview.

1010020 Eden House

Approaching this pub from the road feels a bit weird - as the pub doesn't address the main road at all. 

When you do get in to it, via the start of a housing estate, it becomes clear that the pub is in a very old building - a Georgian manor house called, appropriately, Eden House.

Eden House - the manor, that is - was redeveloped in the mid 1990s in to the pub we now have; with a small retail/office development and a housing estate built on the lands.

The pub itself has a variety of Georgian or Victorian features left inside, and has quite an unusual layout due to the room layout of the house itself. It was also absolutely and utterly rammed when I visited, so I ended up outside rather than continuing to wander around inside. This may be worth a revisit when quiet; but the reason it has ended up so late in my ticks is that it isn't quite the easiest place to get to!

S1328 Ballinteer House

Another single storey, shopping centre carpark pub but with rather less of the semi-architectural interest of the Coach House - this is a bit of a box.

And a very busy box it was too; with not a lot of free tables and a huge amount of food being served at the time of my visit. Surprisingly, there was a single Irish independent tap on offer - Trouble Ambush - which is what I enjoyed at the only free table I could find.

The pub apparently features a six-table snooker hall - with snooker tables very rare in pubs to begin with, and even more than one cue sports table of any description being rarer this is not something you're going to find often.

S0251 Sandyford House

Sandyford, the business park area, has lots of buses; and is walkable from the Luas. It has two not-really pubs and once had a hotel.

Sandyford, the village it's named after, has one irregular bus and eluded me for quite a while - it took close to three hours to get here due to poor meshing of public transport timings; and a lengthy amount of time to get to the next pub afterwards; but I made it.

The Sandyford House claims to date to the 1690s and certainly bits of the pub are very old; but with the 16 years of Streetview passes showing three completely different paint jobs and multiple different approaches to outdoor seating, they certainly aren't unwilling to modify this place! The balcony seating, removed since the earliest passes, is an interesting loss.

I didn't venture any further than the front bar - named Boss Crokers, after the Irish-American politician and former namesake of a pub on the Quays, most recently N0185 Index. I got one of the window bays on my own, as the bar was not terribly busy when I attended. 

A longer visit than normal ensued here, due to the bus times; and I took a few photos of some of the historical paperwork on the walls... which I now can't find. I'm certainly not going on another five hour round-trip mission to re-take them!

S1177 Coach House

If I ever do get around to writing something on the morphology of Dublin pubs, the single storey, high roofed open-plan pub (often, but far from always, beside a shopping centre) will probably take the place of the "generic 80s suburban pub", even if some examples are not from the 80s. And they're a type of pub we're rapidly losing, as many of them succumb to the appeal of their car parks to apartment or supermarket developers.

And indeed, we may yet lose the Coach House - planning was granted in 2023 to demolish and replace with apartments and a "cafe/wine bar" a quarter of the size of the current pub. However, it is still trading currently.

A good example of that form of pub, and with a better range of drinks than many pubs in the city, I'd probably be fairly annoyed if I was local and this was proposed for demolition.

N0023 Admiral

This place currently trades as a restaurant and as such, you do need to eat to get served here. It has previously - while still Admiral - had external signage stating that it was a karaoke bar; but this seems to have been removed around the time the fake bow and prow of a ship were added to the outside walls!

A pan-Eastern-and-Central-European restaurant, this was frequently formerly described as a "Russian" restaurant; but the prominent Ukrainian flags flying from outside the premises should dissuade you from this.

The pub itself is under a multi-storey car park, the construction of which involved demolishing an older pub - The Peacock - further down Marlborough Street. The name, and I assume the licence - such a low serial number indicates a very old licence - moved up to the corner with Cathal Brugha Street after that. The Peacock was sold off in around 2002 after multiple legal issues including an attemp by Gardai to have its licence removed.

There were a few other brief incarnations after this, including an Eastern European bar "Baltika", but it opened as the marine-themed Admiral in the late 00s.

I'm barely a bar reviewer, so getting a food review from me isn't happening - but I was happy enough with the schnitzel I got. Beer choices on draught are more than you'd expect in most restaurants, but do primarily consist of the national draught lager/pilsners of the countries that the restaurant serves the food of.

DG0489 The Bus Bar

Another of my "opened too late in the evening" Skerries misses from my 2021 visit; the Bus Bar burnt down in late 2023. Unlike the slow progress of reopening we see with some other pub fires of the past few years; work started very rapidly here and the pub reopened within ~13 months.

Since the pandemic, a portion of the front of the pub has been taken up by a coffee shop; and this is retained in the rebuilt pub. This leaves a small bar to the front, but with a large lounge to the rear.

Said front bar is quite nice, a one-manner in layout that could convince you that you are in a tiny pub somewhere rather than an element of a bigger setup.

The pubs name intrigues me; but I presume is easily explained by the bus stop for various services from Dublin (and to Balbriggan and rarely Dundalk) being pretty much right outside the door. It has been called that name since opening in the early 1930s.

DG0495 Nealons

I missed this on my previous trip out to Skerries as it opens quite late on weekdays - as then did half the pubs in the town - and I could only really get one of the early evening openers done before going for my train.

The front of the pub looks like something you'd see in a tiny village, not a large enough suburb / seaside resort. The inside extends well beyond the area that the shopfront would suggest, with a rabbit warren of small areas to the front, where you should be able to find somewhere to wedge yourself in, even when busy. It all opens out a bit at the back with a smoking area and big screens. 

I still haven't been to all of the remaining pubs in Skerries - the town still has a sizeable number despite a significant decline in recent years - and while DG0492 The Gladstone Inn is definitely a more traditional pub; Nealons brings in a bit of modernity in a completely inoffensive way.

DG0480 Dempseys

A pub reopening should always be a good occasion, but finding out that one is about to reopen just as you're ticking off all the pubs near it can be a tad annoying. And so it was when I visited Balbriggan in early 2024 and found Dempseys approaching the end of its refurb. 

Formerly The Millrace, one of those pubs where the sales ads online linger for years after being sold; and indeed it lingered for years closed too - the last social media activity for the pub was in 2015 but it may have survived til the pandemic.

The refurb was extensive and the fairly dated interior you can (currently, anyway) see in the linked sales ad is gone; replaced with the faux-old type that has returned to fashion in recent years and should hopefully age well. Despite trying to look old, it's definitely the most modern pub in Balbriggan as it stands.

On opening, a relatively strict dress code was posted, with one entry - "no coats" - raising a lot of eyebrows in a country with a climate that often requires them. This, I suspect, was there to ensure that anyone wanting to flaunt a jacket from specific brands that have acquired a particular reputation wouldn't bother coming in.

That said, I wasn't barred from entering with mine on, despite it being from one of the brands sort of on the edges of that - but it wasn't black or grey so that might have been enough!

N2723 The Hamlet

This pub is a rare enough beast in Dublin - it is a new build, ground floor pub in an apartment block that actually seems to be doing pretty well. 

Lots of apartment and/or retail developments in the 00s included a proposed pub, and often they never opened or have struggled significantly to take off. The closest one to me, just a bit outside of Dublin admittedly, eventually opened as a restaurant about ten years after construction; not holding a pub licence at all. It is possible that being the only pub outside of the town centre in Balbriggan may have helped, as some equivalents are near existing pubs; but there are still a litany of failures elsewhere.

The exterior is rather bland, being that mid 00s retail design of yellow brick and large aluminium windows; but the pub inside is fairly nice and well staffed, with my pint being dropped over after it had settled. 

Revisited pubs, May 2025

May's revisits have a few 'new' entries, as in not the ones you see every month; but the old classics turn up regardless. Also, as I now have so few city centre places to visit anew, I end up in places I've been before more and more often.

S0083 Beer Temple - pint before dinner time
S0106 The Porterhouse - dinner time. Not sure why I didn't just have a burger in the Beer Temple, but that isn't important
N0097 Underdog - regular visit
S0172 The Waterloo - hiding in a snug wasting time before a work event nearby
S0027 The Lombard - bus was so delayed due to roadworks after said work event that I had 65 minutes wait for a train from Pearse
S0077 Nearys - regular meeting location
S0088 Foggy Dew - burning up time before a bus, and seeing some tourists making a scene of themselves
1000393 Gilbert & Wright - going in to the Wright Group Time Machine, as the pub I was trying to tick off was completely full
N0006 Brew Dock - dinner again
S0026 Lincolns Inn - waiting for a dinner appointment nearby, writeup to come
S0048 Kennedys - after said dinner
1016206 Brewdog - waiting for a different dinner appointment in a different pub-licenced restaurant

Revisit writeup because I feel like it: N0097 Underdog

Every month, I do a post listing the pubs I've revisited in the past month - I can tell from the views that people actually do bother reading these; and it provides some evidence that I don't just chase the new places.

One extremely regular entry on that list is Underdog, on the corner of Capel and Bolton Streets. 

The writeup I have been linking to for it is from August 2016, is very brief, and refers to three incarnations of the pub ago - it having had two different Galway Bay Brewery pubs in it between then and now. 

I don't usually care if I link to an old writeup - the Beer Temple will continue to get a pre-GBB The Oak visit linked forever probably - but this one is so poor I'm updating it; particularly as I'm usually there monthly. 

The physical pub here is a Victorian corner pub, extended in to a modern building at the rear. In the past, I suspect it went in to this building also; for this was a hotel for a number of decades in the early 20th century. The interior is not Victorian, so it isn't on the lists of Victorian pubs - but in this part of the city, most of the pubs are well over 150 years old. It spent a bit of time between pub incarnations as a chain off-licence, before becoming a sort-of craft beer bar nearly 15 years ago. It hasn't moved too far away from this since.

On to the current operations. Underdog is basically the last full craft bar in Dublin that isn't owned by a brewery; and potentially the only non brewery owned bar that doesn't sell Guinness. 

There's a small number of bar staff here - including the owner, all well educated in the product they sell. There aren't really any fixed taps; but there are some near permanent products here - all from Irish or international independent breweries. You'll find something to drink.

The kitchen here hasn't operated as a regular thing since the last Galway Bay era; but it may yet reopen. Until then, if you need food, you really don't need to go far - this section of Bolton Street has multiple interesting and good quality Brazilian places of various kinds, as well as other pubs doing food.

N2648 Travelodge Dublin Airport South / Metzo

A few weeks of writeups ago, I commented on the use of "Airport" in a hotel name to avoid telling you where it actually is. In this case, "Airport South" is being used as there is already another Travelodge - a much older one from the chains initial rollout in Ireland - with Dublin Airport in it's name.

What they're hiding from you, location wise, is that this is in Ballymun; part of the mid 00s redevelopment of the town centre. Outsiders may not care about Ballymuns past reputation, but search engines exist and fudging both the location and the distance from the airport itself probably seemed worthwhile.

If you didn't know that it was a hotel bar, you wouldn't really tell that Metzo - or the Fishbowl as it is commonly nicknamed - is; except possibly for its extremely strange layout. It is accessed mainly (or solely, possibly) from the street outside rather than the hotel and is not branded as a hotel bar in any way.

The weird layout is made use of, with the semi isolated bit behind the toilets used for darts; and the area between the bar and the windows featuring a singer somewhat murdering soul standards at the time I visited.

While Ballymun had two vast pubs in the original shopping centre across the road - N0824 The Towers and The Penthouse; it now only has the bar of this hotel; a fraction of the size of even one of the two old pubs. Residents have complained to the media about the size, or lack thereof, of this.

N2771 Metro Hotel

Yet another case of deploying the DW-from-Arthur meme here, and ignoring the largest set of signs telling me that a hotel bar is residents only; specifically because a former work colleague drinks here frequently; while not living in the hotel

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Indeed, he drank here when the hotel only had a residents bar licence, but a year or so ago the licence changed type to a public bar one - the serial number not changing in the process oddly enough.

On barging past the further set of signs inside the lobby telling me I would not be served in the bar, and further ignoring a sign telling me to wait to be seated; I was served and able to sit where I wanted. 

The pint wasn't the best either, possibly because they aren't selling very much when clearly trying to dissuade people from coming in!

N2433 Astro Park Coolock

I don't visit sports club bars, because they don't have pub licences. Except when, for whatever reason, they actually do. This is going to be the first of, well, only two I believe; that get written up in the next few weeks.

Astro Park, a provider of 5 a side all-weather pitches, has two locations in Dublin and both are fitted with bars. However, as far as I'm aware the one in Tallaght uses a members club licence and also hasn't been open for years - it has been listed for rent on and off for as long as I've been checking pub ads. 

Coolock, though, has a normal pub licence and the bar is very much open to the public

A slightly dated (there's CRT TVs built in to the walls, not turned on anymore though) sports bar occupying nearly all the first floor of the clubhouse building, this offers a wings-and-burgers type food menu and a reasonable range of pints, and lots of working TVs showing various sports - I think there was a Premier League / GAA split two ends of the room on my visit.

There's a distinct lack of pubs around this part of the city - the nearest to the East (N0173 Swiss Cottage) and West (N0909 Liz Delaneys/Black Sheep) have both closed permanently in the last ten years, so I would have expected this to be busier - while not quiet, there were plenty of seats available. There is live music on Saturday evenings, so there is slightly more on offer than sports.

N0852 The Concorde (as Green Fields)

It isn't often that I arrive at a pub and find that it has changed name without me knowing - indeed I don't think it's ever happened before. Pubs have shut down completely on me a number of times, so it's not like I pick up everything of course - I have even got a bus specifically to try tick somewhere off to find it dark and empty; having shut actual years beforehand (N0138 The Hollybrook, formerly Gilbert & Wright Clontarf).

In this case, even Google was unaware that The Concorde was not The Concorde anymore; having changed at some point since it was offered for sale in 2021. That article mentions the pub being kept in excellent condition, so my initial assumption that it had been renovated after sale may be inaccurate - it is in very good condition throughout.

You'll notice I've said "was". In the time between my visit and the writeup being published, the pub has reverted to The Concorde. It's just as well my correction on Google Maps wasn't accepted!

It's a large enough pub and it's sort of hard to say whether the area I was in was a bar area or a games room; featuring a pool table, and also some of my most disliked things in a pub - gaming machines. However, unlike some other pubs, they weren't right inside the door or blaring noise; so I'm more tolerant of them here.

Edenmore formerly had a second pub, N0741 Edenmore House, but this closed in the mid 2010s. The licence was moved to 1012867 Temple Bar Inn, one of the last licence transfers I ever saw reported in detail in a newspaper - court reporting of less salacious cases being an early victim of cuts in journalism! 

N1343 Racecourse Inn

After the previous pub writeup heavily featuring a fire, you might not expect the next one to do so too; but the Racecourse was damaged in a fire in 2012, although not anywhere near as extensively as Graingers was in 2002.

Named for Baldoyle Racecourse, which closed in 1972, the pub and adjacent Racecourse Shopping Centre are not actually built on the lands of the race course, which remain extensively un-redeveloped to this day. 

 

There's large Hope adverts in the road-facing windows of the pub, but the vast lounge I was in didn't serve it. Looking at the layout from the outside, I'm guessing it's served in a bar which I missed - craft in the bar rather than the lounge isn't the most common thing!

 

The lounge was fairly lively for the time of the afternoon it was, before there was any particularly high interest sports on TV; with a mix of racing viewers, families dining and groups of lads in five-a-side kit; presumably *after* their match rather than before making up the bulk of the customers.

N0125 The White House

Creches - not something you usually associate with a pub; except possibly as an insult for somewhere known to be a tad lax with age requirements... 

However, in a previous incarnation, this pub had a creche for the children of its customers, opening in 1996, but not mentioned in reports of the significant fire in 2002 which gutted the pub - for the second time in ten years, it having previously been burnt out in 1992.

The reports on the €4m arson in 2002 do mention another continuing oddity - the pub had, and still has, its own newsagents - currently branded as an XL Stop and Shop. 

While common in rural areas to this day, pubs with their own shop are extremely uncommon in Dublin, excluding the dwindling off-licence sections that some pubs still retain.

I'm aware of only one other conventional one (S3046 The Swallows in Deansrath features a Daybreak), plus the ability to buy some of the decorative hardware in S3271 Marys. Even the rural village pubs of North County Dublin don't retain shops at this stage - albeit there is one still intact at N0253 The Brock, it appears to be closed down by even the 2009 Streetview pass.

Despite this slight anachronism, the pub is modern and well presented, having been refit extensively in 2015. It's on the bigger side for older suburban pubs, so there's a few areas to pick from.

N0245 Wrens Nest

One of the least accessible pubs in Dublin - something for a future listicle I think, when the massive backlog of pub writeups is fought down (as I write this, I have enough posts to schedule in to September. I visited the Wrens Nest in March!); I missed out visiting here on a previous driver-assisted pub ticking trip through the Strawberry Beds, as the pubs opening hours were exceptionally limited when under the operation of the previous generation of ownership.

In the six years since then, Maureen has passed away and the next generation now open the pub for slightly longer hours; so I headed off to get a taxi down to drop in.

I was initially foiled in my plans, as the taxi rank in Lucan village that I had been aware of for years - often using it to get home in the days when the Nitelink only ran beyond Lucan on weekends, and earlier than to Lucan even then - is currently gone; dug up for a rebuild of the park in the village. 

Resorting to the apps did get me out, eventually, and rather damper than I'd hoped - it started raining very heavily in the time stood waiting for a taxi to get to me!

The pub is definitely the smallest of the three down in the Strawberry Beds, with the smallest carpark also; but can be very busy on weekends with nice weather, particularly with the pandemic era addition of a reasonably big beer garden out front. As it was a weekend with awful weather, I was the only customer for some time on my visit - but things picked up later on. 

There's music, generally trad, three nights a week; and signs up in the bar for other events like table quizzes which would keep a constant trade coming down here outside of the good weather rushes.

You really do need a taxi to get here; and possibly the traffic-locked and currently very dug up Lucan Village isn't the best place to get one from - Castleknock may have made more sense. The bar will call for a taxi for you to get back if you don't use the apps.

N1054 Newtown House

In my previous post, I mentioned that the pub was often claimed to be one of the roughest in Dublin; but it was perfectly safe when I was there.

Well, here we go again...

The Newtown House's reputation is at least in part down to it having no windows. But it's in very good (if not excellent) condition inside, and again I had absolutely no issues heading in for a pint. 

Well, some older ladies decided that they were going to take half of my table; but we ended up having a conversation about the pubs in the area and some of the now-gone hotels that used be on the Malahide Road, those having had active and very popular nightclubs when they were younger 

The pub was put on the market in 2022 but I'm not entirely sure if it sold - it is still listed on JP Younge's website.

Whenever there's a future refurb - although it's not like it needs one urgently - a few windows in the front will do more to dispel the image the pub has than anything else could. This has been done to a few pubs in Dublin 8 in the last decade to great affect.

N0976 Priorswood Inn

This pub frequently turns up when people are nominating places as the "roughest pub" in Dublin. Lets see about that...

I have been told a number of times that I resemble an undercover Garda, and that added with the fact that I go to a lot of these pubs alone may be part of why I effectively never have trouble in these apparently terrible pubs. 

I suspect maturation of the areas they're in, the people causing problems being barred, and the growth in garden bars during the pandemic reducing the "need" for some people to get in to pubs have all had an impact; but this pub was fine. A bit smelly, but fine.

There were two doormen inside the pub, but sitting off to one side and not making entrance difficult. Beamish on tap at a reasonable price. 

I believe this was used as the filming location for outside shots of a pub in Love/Hate - the long closed Leonards on Watling Street/Victoria Quay being the indoor filming location; and I once had to clamber over the wall of the carpark outside to go do a service visit to the dentists in the same shopping complex due to said filming. I imagine it was a more threatening pub in the TV show than in reality!

N2506 Hilton Hotel Dublin Airport

This hotel isn't particularly close to Dublin Airport, but that's what it's called... probably an element of not wanting to call it Hilton Darndale coupled with an attempt to convince visitors that it is significantly closer to the airport than it actually is - a trend plenty of hotels in North County Dublin follow.

There is a very large bar and restaurant here, and it is open to the public - although there was a bouncer at the entrance, not a common sight in a hotel bar in the early evening. 

I suspect they'd rather prefer people come in here to eat, but there is no issue not doing that. There's a fairly good range of *bottled* Irish independent brewery beers to add to the most generic hotel tap lineup possible; and plenty of different areas to pick in the bar.

N0274 The Brook

Would I trust a pandemic-era set of opening hours on social media; a similar old, contradictory one on Google Maps or just assume that a seaside pub is likely to be open in the early afternoon on a weekend?

I went for the latter and got on a 33B; and as luck would have it, the timings from almost half a decade ago were wrong - and The Brook was indeed already open. Pandemic era opening hours still lurk on the internet in multiple places - Facebook believes the pub in my previous writeup still closes at 8.

A nice pub that I suspect gets very busy on warmer days, with a single large room more reminiscent of a country pub; despite being served by regular service buses and beside a very popular beach.

N0272 Keelings

Keelings is the only pub in Donabate, for now at least - Smyths having closed its doors in August 2024, with the contents auctioned off.

Luckily for drinking capacity in the town, Keelings is fairly large, but its unfortunately also not incredibly memorable. Suburban pubs don't really need to be - people go to them because they're local, and form connections with the pub via people, via events, social activities and so on; rather than because they're incredibly notable for some reason. Just existing is no guarantee of success - the place still needs to be well run - but the result is often somewhere very similar to other places I've been before. And that isn't a bad thing.

There's some Hope taps, which is always nice to see in pubs near (or near-ish, this far out) to the brewery - Hope having established themselves as the default craft choice in Northside and North Dublin pubs in the same way as Rye River have in West Dublin / North Kildare, and Wicklow Wolf on the Southside.

1015219 Dublin Liberties Distillery

I'm pulling this writeup out of order; as the news has just broken that this distillery is closing - as in fully closing, with no clarity on whether it is ever reopening at all.

Distillation has stopped, with the visitor centre closing imminently - I've seen claimed dates of "Tuesday" - as in May 20th - or June 1st for this; but there's no info on any of their social media channels about this.

I only visited a few weeks ago, and this writeup would have been in August otherwise; but I feel it should be pushed forward in case anyone wants to go during the very limited time the visitor centre has left.

They do (or did) tours here, and also hosted events; but I turned up and asked what the options were for being served without doing a tour; if they could do this at all. Most of Dublin's distilleries have an explicit bar, and are totally willing to serve you without a tour - but there isn't quite so obvious a bar here, despite the full pub licence.

However, they could still serve me. Two tasting flights were on offer; as well as some mixed drinks. I opted for their premium tasting flight, at €35, which featured some quite old whiskey - sourced, obviously, for a new distillery - as well as their own products.

The sourced products in said flight were exceptional, chosen to exhibit their casking more than their age and doing so very well. The younger, on-site made product was of a good quality, young but better than many newer Irish whiskeys I've had by a decent margin.

The staff member that served me knew her stuff, both on the distillery and on Irish whiskey in general. Should the staff all be laid off in the coming days as looks to be the case, she would be an asset to any other distillery tour - as presumably are the others if the training and experience are similar.  

I hope that the closure here is brief; and that the staff are able to find roles elsewhere - it is a particularly bad portent for the distilling industry here when an established distillery, with a competent visitor experience; owned by a mini-major of the drinks world feels the need to close.

1015814 Doolally

Around the time of my visit here, the yet to be renamed Press Up Entertainment - now Eclective - were in various forms of financial trouble.

My visit here may have suggested why.

This vast, vast restaurant pub was under a quarter full. Shortly after being seated, it became clear that the table beside me had been given the wrong main course, providing a significant hit to the kitchens food costs.

My own meal was then delivered, with the wrong main course...

I did get what I'd ordered, it was fine but not fantastic - a common problem with Press Up menus - and a tad dear. But the margin for my visit would have been reduced; and with a giant, mostly empty dining room to light and heat, they would need a very big margin to keep going.

I also don't think "doolally" is a good name for a pub, but there's plenty of premises I'd suggest get renamed if anyone would listen, and I'm not sure this would be even in the top ten!

1015855 Marlin Hotel

When I first cased out the bar here for drinks, it was closed - with a sign saying that drinks could be got from The Horsebox, a cafe in an actual converted horsebox in the hotel lobby. As I suspected this might be more for residents, I came back some hours later and got in to the now open, large, but basically empty bar.

During my time there I was offered the food menu and asked if I'd picked something multiple times - I didn't want to eat yet, and didn't order anything; but it gave me the feeling that outside drinkers are tolerated at best. I'd suggest that if you intend to go here, go here to eat.

Going here to eat was something I'd planned to do - it was the third and final location of the surprisingly mobile Canteen restaurant, which spent some time operating relatively close to my house (in Celbridge - the restaurant that is, not my house) and where I ate and enjoyed a number of meals. 

The move happened to coincidence with the Pandemic, closing in Celbridge in late February 2020 and only reopening in the Marlin when restaurants reopened for the first time in June that year; and for whatever reason this did not last. The hotel does not currently seem to have a high end restaurant as a replacement.

There is planning permission to extend / add an annexe to the hotel, breaking through to some of the oldest retail buildings in Dublin on Aungier Street, but I'm not sure if this is going ahead. The annexe was proposed to be called The Dolphin, keeping a maritime theme to the naming, and would restore some direly neglected buildings in the process.

1018396 Premier Inn Temple Bar

This Premier Inn has possibly the least accurate locational name of any hotel in Dublin that isn't pretending to be at the Airport - it is on the corner of Georges and Stephen Streets and quite some distance from Temple Bar!

The hotel was built in to a series of buildings which had once been a hotel - the Red Lion, and latterly used for retail and restaurant use. The corner unit has been kept for restaurant use, but is still unoccupied some years after the hotel opening; and you instead enter the hotel through a corridor, with lifts down to a basement reception and bar.

Every time I stuck my head in here, the bar appeared closed and was behind the reception desk. So I phoned them and asked if the bar was a: ever open and b: open to the public - the answer to both being yes, it is open normal hours and anyone can go in.

It's an odd experience - you're basically drinking in a basement bar/restaurant that feels a bit like a canteen or breakfast room; which I presume it actually is. The pint was particularly poor too. 

I don't see why you'd be bothered going here, but you can, should you wish to.

1020358 Chancery Hotel

A still quite new - opened March 2024 - hotel, this sits right beside the Radisson's Dublin Royal Convention Centre, but is a separate hotel and under separate ownership, linked with S3012 The Grafton Hotel

The bar here is small, but still has a reasonable range of drinks for its size, including Irish independent brewery products. Toilets are buried in the basement and, from memory, more than a little odd - hand dryers fitted to the sinks that resemble bulky taps and automated sliding doors.

It is rather out of the way for most reasons you'd be looking for a pint, but if you're at an event in the aforementioned conference centre, or in Le Pole Square or Dublin Castle it may be worth a visit.

S3445 Fitzwilliam Hotel

The Inn On The Green bar in the Fitzwilliam Hotel is slightly buried inside it; and as such I had never bothered going in to try find it. However, as unvisited premises in the city centre are getting thin on the ground, I decided to see if I could go in.

On the day of my visit, the actual main entrance to the hotel was undergoing works, so you had to enter through what I suspect is normally a fire exit, or at best a circulation stairwell; which dropped you in to a corridor somewhere to the side of the reception. This did not stop a doorman seeing me and asking what I was looking for - but the outcome was not rejection, but instead instructions on how to find the bar - it is very much open to the public.

And a very snazzy bar it is too, albeit the decor and lack of windows do make it feel like you're drinking on a very fancy cruise ship. 

Like some other 5-star hotels in Dublin - the Shelbourne, Marker and Merrion being ones I've experienced this in - there's some free basic bar snacks; albeit the range of drinks is quite limited.

Dublin was exceptionally quiet on the day of my visit, so this bar being even quieter than most is possibly not a regular occurrence, but it may still be a good place to drop in to for a quiet drink when elsewhere is busy. It's certainly away from the main activity outside.

1011740 Hilton Hotel, Charlemont

Unlike its stablemate hotel in Kilmainham, there is no sign stating that the bar is Residents Only here at the "Hilton Dublin" as it is simply branded. The Charlemont Bar & Bistro has signage outside and they have always advertised the bar to outsiders, including when it was called the Third Stop - a now dated reference to the Luas stop outside, which is no longer third from the end of the line. 

The bar is quite nice by hotel bar standards, and is unlikely to ever be as busy as the nearby S0202 The Barge. Other than The Barge, there is somewhat of a pub desert around here, so this is worth remembering as an option.

Originally built as a Stakis hotel, I *think* this was the first Hilton in Ireland; but I'm not entirely certain of that.

1989's Recommended Pubs - Again

I'm always on the lookout for old guides to Dublin pubs - from any era up until the present, really - as they often contain bits of information that I might not have otherwise landed on; albeit sometimes uncited and extremely untrustworthy (there's a fairly recent guide which has a clanger per page ratio of about 1:1, and that's just the bits I know not to be true.

But when you find a book written by Eamonn Casey, who is still around and operating as a licenced trade historian - despite the National Library having decided that he's dead (those dates are for the disgraced Bishop of the same name!), it should be vastly more trustworthy. Eamonn's stuff all appears to be properly sourced and verifiable.

Eamonn has published two guidebooks to Dublin pubs, one in 1989 and one in 1992. The 1989 version is slightly harder to find in libraries, but was not hard to find second hand; and by virtue of being slightly older I bought this one first - I'll either buy, or go to a library to read, the 1992 one at some point. 

Both books were published by "Pelican Marketing Publications" and feature ads from trade suppliers - Guinness, Ballygowan, United Beverages (Guinness's then soft drinks arm), Bank of Ireland, Tilestyle and "A Trust Catering Repair", who seem to have changed names repeatedly and may still exist under one of them. There are also "profiles" of some individuals and companies including Murtagh Properties and the Fitzgerald Group - and in both cases, many of their pubs are featured in the book.

Regardless of the corporate sponsorship, this is a consumer targetted publication. 

55 pubs are covered, and despite a 36 year gap between publication and now, most are still trading under their original name. Most have a two page writeup, but the first two have three for some reason; with usually an interior and exterior photo. The exterior photos of a number of pubs feature the same Ford Sierra (with a reg that comes up on check site as being a Transit van somehow), presumably either the authors or an unnammed photographers.

Most writeups have some history of pub - past ownership, licencing history or similar - which makes this invaluable for someone working on any pub history project including any of the pubs covered.  

Another reason to read such outdated info as the more review-like bits of the writeups, is that a review from 1989 can show a very different pub to today. 1989 Whelans is described as somewhere to get a good lunch, with much detail of its interior design - and not a single mention of live music! 

I'm not really a book reviewer, and nor am I going to just scan in a book that's still available and with a living author, so I'm going to do my usual summary of what the book contains and what has happened to the pubs since. At 48/55 still trading in some form, this has a similar-ish closure rate to the other 1989 pub listing I've previously analysed

I have visited all 48 of these premises that remain open in some form, albeit some are completely transformed by now - rebuilt, converted to a hotel or in a slightly different location!

The pubs featured are:

"Dublin Pubs Southside"

S0253 The Goat, Goatstown
S0314 The Queens, Dalkey
S0298 The Old Punch Bowl, Booterstown
S0251 Sandyford House, Sandyford (visited but writeup not yet published)
The Carraig, Blackrock - now S0292 Wicked Wolf
Martin Morris, Terenure - now S0248 Vaughns Eagle House
S0302 The Purty Kitchen, Dun Laoghaire
S1580 The Rathcoole Inn, Rathcoole
N1121 Palmerstown House, Palmerstown
S0768 The Blue Haven, Rathfarnham
The Clocktower, Kingswood - since completely rebuilt as S2821 Kingswood Lodge
The Earl of Lucan bar, N1133 Spa Hotel, Lucan - now called the Ballyneety Bar
S1510 The Patriots Inn, Kilmainham
S1268 The Sarah Curran, Rathfarnham - closed, most recently the Rathfarnham House.
S0399 The Wishing Well, Blackrock
The Seventh Lock Tavern, Ballyfermot - demolished, most recently the Killeen House
S1328 Ballinteer House, Ballinteer (visited but writeup not yet published)
S1583 An Poitín Stil, Rathcoole
1009200 The Laurels, Clondalkin

"Central Dublin"

O'Dwyers, Mount Street - redeveloped as S0149 Leinster Hotel (writeup reflects its intermediate period as Howl At The Moon)
S0003 Toners, Baggot Street
S2793 Sinnotts, South King Street - this was already the current generation of this in the shopping centre, which had opened the previous year
S0056 The Bailey, Duke Street
The Parnell Mooney - now N1098 Parnell Heritage Pub
Bellamys, Ballsbridge - now 1011804 The Bridge 1859 (but writeup is about Bellamys)
S0240 Slatterys, Rathmines
S0180 Slatterys, Ballsbridge
Caspers, Wicklow Street - now S3271 Marys, sort of (building has had multiple redevelopments)
Bunit & Simpson, Ringsend - now S0158 John Clarkes
S0120 Whelans, Wexford Street
Rathmines Inn, Rathmines - now S0235 Blackbird
Alfie Byrnes, Conrad Hotel, Earlsfort Terrace, now S2747 Terrace Kitchen (writeup is about a different era of it being Alfie Byrnes)
1007394 Davy Byrnes, Duke Street
S0111 The Old Stand, Exchequer Street
Maguires, Pearse Street - demolished, most recently Widow Scallans
S0086 The Palace, Fleet Street
The Harp, D'Olier Street - now S0967 River Bar

"North City"

Dollymount House, Clontarf - demolished
1013257 Gibneys, Malahide
N0152 The Drake Inn, Finglas - long-term closed
The Coast Inn, Skerries (visited but writeup not yet published)
N0149 The Fairview Inn, Fairview - closed, most recently The Players Lounge
N0123 Beaumont House, Beaumont
N0022 Hill 16, Middle Gardiner Street - closed but may reopen shortly.
The Big Tree, Dorset Street - now the bar of N0018 Dublin One Hotel (writeup reflects the Big Tree)
N0169 The Eplhin, Sutton
N0141 Viscount House, Whitehall
N0284 The Harbour Bar, Rush
N0134 Thomas Gaffney, Fairview - both premises were still open at the time, only the larger pub remains
N0146 Cat & Cage, Drumcondra
The Millennium , Swords - completely rebuilt as N1597 Peacocks
N0247 The Boot, Cloghran - currently closed
N0758 Clonsilla Inn, Clonsilla
Sheaf O'Wheat, Coolock - now N0120 Cock & Bull