Sunday 31 December 2023

Not-Pubs of old - Dublin's Beer Houses and Spirit Grocers

In Summer 2020, I wrote "What Is A Pub?", detailing the types of licences I consider to be pubs and criticising a reductionist attempt by the LVA to disassociate themselves from an event happening somewhere that nearly everyone except them considered to be a pub.

However, there are plenty of places that lots of people consider to be pubs but definitely aren't - these days they are mostly members clubs. Sports clubhouses, institutional setups like the Dáil and college bars compromise the majority of these; but the one that I get asked about the most is the Millmount House in Drumcondra - which looks and mostly acts like a pub; but is the Association of Retired Prison Officers bar. 

There are also a small number of hotel residents bars that ignore the 'residents' restriction, and a few restaurants significantly stretching the use of their Special Restaurant Licence or Restaurant Certificate on a wine licence, but not many - and I'm not naming them here.

But in the semi-distant past, there were two other categories that would have turned up; had I been around in the 1890s and doing this blog via a column in the Freemans Journal perhaps. Beer Houses and Spirit Grocers existed in Dublin in semi-significant numbers, particularly in certain areas, and had specific constraints on their trade compared to premises with the standard (6- or 7- day Publicans Ordinary) licence.

Spirit Grocers

Spirit Grocers probably cause the most confusion; as this term was often used as a euphemism for the bar of an actually publican licenced premises with an attached grocery - the LVA used to be the LVGA - Licenced Vintners and Grocers Association - and what we often call 'the Barmans Union' also covered grocery staff. But the category of premises being referred to here would today be an in-store off-licence.

The Spirit Retailers Off-Licence category still exists; either standalone (very rarely), or combined with a Wine Retailers Off-Licence and a Beer Retailers Off-Licence to form a "full" off-licence licence, as held by the majority of standalone off-licences and all the supermarkets and convenience stores in Dublin that sell beer and spirits in addition to wine.

So, you may think, it was just an off-licence back then as it is now - and most of them were. But there were plenty of Spirit Grocers who would serve for consumption on the premises, often to women who would not - or could not - go to a pub to drink and did not want to (or again, could not) be seen to drink at home. Allowing women behind a wall of tea chests to drink a bottle of stout or a Baby Powers - introduced in 1889 at a larger size than it is currently, at 71ml, two full Irish shots - was often done but was, by the letter of the law, illegal.

It is impossible to know how many Spirit Grocers allowed this practice, as there are not usually accurate registers of law-breakers! But prosecutions can easily be found. This example mentions the hiding behind a partition to consume. This was Mulholland's fifth conviction for allowing consumption on site.


 Freemans Journal, February 2nd 1900

Many places that may be recorded in social histories as "pubs", particularly in working class areas, are in fact Spirit Grocers - particularly if coming from someone's memory of where their mother or grandmother drank. 


Beer Houses

This second category provided something that could range from effectively a bottle shop - beer/cider/perry only - through to a full pub style experience; albeit only able to sell beer, cider, perry and non-alcoholic drinks.

Beer Houses were a licencing oddity, an Irish version of a reduced regulations licence type offered in England & Wales since 1830, but one which disallowed on-sales. Even though full pub licences could, in theory, be created anew until 1902 there were (and still are now) strict regulations that could prevent you from obtaining one - and they were particularly difficult to obtain in Dublin compared to elsewhere in the country.

A Beer House licence was obtainable with significantly less conditions - £1 application fee, initially 1s (5p/6c) a year licence, and prior to 1864, no requirement to prove good character - and as such they became quite common.

An attempt to restrict these, pushed for by the LVGA of the time due to the significant competition they provided to their members, lead to restrictions in 1877 requiring the rateable valuation of the premises to be £15 if in a city or large town. This closed many Beer Houses down nearly overnight and all but prevented new one from being opened. A £15 valuation for a premises not already containing a successful business would have been next to impossible to obtain in 1877 - indeed, here is an example of a small, but fully licenced pub in a poorer area of Dublin (Chamber Street) only being valued at £14 in 1912.

29 Chamber Street in Thoms Dublin Directory, 1912

As an aside - the Beer Retailers Off Licence that still exists and forms part of the normal "full off-licence" is the last relic of this system, as it still imposes the same valuation restrictions as were brought in in 1877, however they have never been adjusted for inflation so are basically irrelevant.

There were substantial numbers of these licences issued, but a significantly smaller number of licences equivalent to the GB Beer House - the Beer Retailers On Licence.

I had inaccurately assumed that Beer Houses had ceased to be around the time of the 1902 licencing changes, but references to them in Dublin turn up quite some years afterwards. 

Sam from Come Here To Me! turned up a 1906 court case involving after-hours serving at a Beer House in East Wall, notably mentioning that it had a full bar. This premises - with its >£15 rateable valuation - continued as a Beer House until at least 1916, being up for sale with same in that year; but in 1933 its off-licence (clearly no longer the Beer House licence - it may have become a full off licence so as to sell spirits) was voided for serving on-premises

Irish Press, July 1st 1933

CSO Statistical Abstracts, published from the mid 1920s onwards, provided a figure for the number of Beer Retailers On Licences renewed in the previous year - peaking at 91 in the 1928/29 licencing year and slowly declining afterwards

Legislation was introduced to more easily allow a Beer House to become a pub by onboarding a 6-day licence from a closed pub in 1927, and 7-day licences after 1942 - the Dáil debates around this claim that there were still 153 of them in the State, which despite being significantly higher than the figure from the CSO Abstracts, could actually be valid as licences are often not reliably renewed annually and the likelihood of there being minor objections and delays when dealing with a lower value, lower cost licence would be higher.

That the licences were so rare is occasionally reflected in media reportage. A newspaper report (Irish Press, April 10th 1954) featuring a judge who had never seen a Beer House licence come before him and having it explained as a "very old licence" 

Holders of beerhouse licences were given the option to convert them to conventional pub licences (along with those holding 6 day and/or early closing licences, deemed as one to be "restricted licences") during the early 1960s  for £100, and again for a brief period in the early 2000s, on payment of £2,500, and a committal to holding on to it for five years. 

Revenue's statistical bulletins show single figure numbers of beer on-licences being renewed by the mid 1970s onwards, with 1976 the first showing below 10, albeit it did occasionally go back above. 19 were renewed in 1996, possible aware that the conversion amnesty was going to be brought in  - the "prize" from doing this was a licence worth about €100,000 after your five period, at the going rate.

Revenue's last year of statistical bulletins showing any number is 2007, with eight licences. There are zero shown every year since. I suspect, but have no solid basis for doing so, that licences being converted under the early 2000s scheme continued to be listed as such until their five year no-sale period expired. This gives us a last Beer House date of some time in the early to mid 2000s. By comparison, the last in the UK closed in 1980.

Saturday 30 December 2023

1020516 O'Regans

This pub popped up like a submarine - I didn't notice planning for it, didn't notice any social media stuff for it in advance and only found out about it after it was already open. I do state that my list of future pubs - see the sidebar as the 2023 one is about to be replaced with a 2024 one so linking is pointless - cannot be exhaustive, but depth charges like this one are rare. In my defence, I believe the build might even have kicked off pre-pandemic when I wasn't tracking these things as closely.

Dublin By Pub has identified, in tweets I cannot currently locate, a trend that a substantial number of Dublin's new pubs are going for a classic Dublin pub interior these days, the complete opposite of the industrial look that was common for years (and even had some 2023 appearances). O'Regans meets this trend, with dark wood, brass, marble and padded seats making it feel like it could be contemporary to the building (1881).

The pub occupies two of the units of the South City Markets building, one formerly part of the still extant David Marshall hairdressers, and the other the missed, but still online, Opus II sheet music store. This sold instruments and equipment but was best known for its sheet music and music books, and this is what they now sell online.

This provides two bars, one offering cocktails and the other 'only' normal bar products. They both have an odd, limited but more than sufficient for me tap listing - featuring amongst the oddities Kilkenny, Harp and an own brand lager; with a Rye River IPA providing my drinks.

I visited this pub - and the next two - two days after the Parnell Square / O'Connell Street riots; feeling that the city centres retailers and publicans could do with some support. As a result, the pub was very, very quiet but this is not a visit that you could take as a baseline for how busy it might get.

Wednesday 27 December 2023

1010888 Birchalls (Crumlin/Drimnagh)

Google Maps told me this pub was closed. Its Instagram page hasn't been updated for three years, and links to a website that doesn't exist. Even the pubs golf society's Facebook page hasn't been updated since Winter 2021. And I even thought I'd already passed it on the way to the previous pub without noticing that it was open. This is an unfortunate story repeated many times across Dublin since the pandemic and I was about to write the place off.

But it was only around the corner, so I decided to make absolutely sure before knocking it off my list as undoable. And it was very much open. I corrected Google Maps. 

A nice warm (the night was quite cold, so this was an important factor for me!) pub with Beamish on tap, with obviously enough locals trade to keep it going despite being near invisible online.

The bar section is quite small and has an exceptionally awkward table layout that pretty much requires you to get right in to the personal space of other drinkers even when its half empty, but that's about the only negative I can think of.

Friday 22 December 2023

S1430 The Gate

After the last pubs brief trip to 2006, conversation wise, I wondered if the time machine affect would continue in the next pub. And continue it did.

The Gate has a classic, but in good condition, bar interior; a fridge bursting with bottled Macardles, an unfortunately out of use Bass tap, and Beamish at a reasonable price to round off feeling like you've stepped somewhat back in time.

A 1930s build like the rest of the area; this build, I believe, very briefly a Munster & Leinster Bank (one of the Allied Irish Banks) before becoming a pub in 1938

Wednesday 20 December 2023

S1481 Two Sisters

This could have been my grandparents local - if either of them drank. One never did, one took to the odd sherry or vodka and white in later life - but after they'd moved away from almost directly  across the road. 

My mother - who also doesn't drink - main childhood memories are of a different house, as her parents lived here while she was in boarding school and Gaeltacht college for much of the year; and continued to lived there after she'd moved out to get married.

So I've no family lore about the pub to pad this out with. Oh well.

The pub was solidly busy on a cold evening, meaning I had to sit at the bar for my pint. But this provided a better accidental eavesdropping location than sitting elsewhere in the pub did, and this lead me to overhear the most Celtic Tiger era conversation I've heard in years (at least outside of D2/4).

Great detail was gone in to relating to selecting a rental property to buy, yields, interest rates and risks; although I got the impression that those getting the information were not convinced that this was the time to become a landlord. Neither was I, although I could probably only afford to invest in a Lego house in D6W.

Tuesday 19 December 2023

Revisited Pubs October-November 2023

Got more new, and less revisited pubs in October than in the previous month of returning to the scene of events past. But I still visited a few. And forgot to publish the post. 

So here's two months worth:

N0006 Brew Dock - multiple times in both months, including dinner and arranging the distribution of tickets before a gig in...

N0033 3Arena - I had actually listed this on Septembers list, but it was October 1st so I've edited that now.

S4289 PMacs Dundrum - I wanted an Ambush. They did not have an Ambush - the crowd not watching the rugby the night before had drunk them dry.

S0194 The Hill, Ranelagh - I liked this so much the last time - years and years ago - I wanted to see what the new operators had done to the place. It hasn't changed much.

N0084 The Black Sheep - dinner before...

N0097 Underdog - late evening drinks

Monday 18 December 2023

S1762 The Laurels

Some weeks before my trip to The Laurels, the group I was with were asked to both take an outdoor table and be prepared to leave if another group wished to eat in a bar. But that bar was in Barcelona; and the owner appeared to prefer leaving tables free for potential diners at all costs - there were a significant number of tables available inside too.

By comparison, when in The Laurels on my own those some weeks later, I was occupying a large four or small six person table, perfect in size to extend a broadsheet newspaper across. Some time towards the end of my pint, a very apologetic barman came over and asked if I would mind moving to a smaller table, should a larger party looking to eat come in.

I have absolutely no problem with this, and agreed - and indeed, did not need to, even after having a second pint; as no group of that size arrived. The smaller tables in question were still more than adequate to slum it in by folding my newspaper anyway.

That rambling comparison of the quality of hospitality in Ireland versus Catalonia does have a point - while the polite request is what you'd always want in Ireland; The Laurels has its eyes on becoming a hotel, where you would expect a certain standard of hospitality. I don't think that will be a problem here.

Beyond that interaction, which had no impact on me anyway and would barely have justified a mention even if I did move, this is a perfectly pleasant large suburban pub. There is obviously food on offer here, but it is maybe a tiny bit less of the core product than in its near neighbour.

Thursday 14 December 2023

S1479 The Pines

This isn't a negative review, but it is basically just neutral. This pub was very busy but I didn't quite "get" it. Its nicely fitted out, the staff were good but it really felt too much like a carvery pub for my tastes.

And, well, that's it. I don't really remember much else about it, so there wasn't anything negative. 

Tuesday 12 December 2023

S1484 The Kestrel

This isn't quite a last-chance-to-see (although worryingly, we may be getting close to that for its avian namesake, at least in Ireland); but with two failed planning attempts to convert this giant complex in to apartments it is likely that there will be a further application in the future. 

A pub is likely to be retained in the new development - it has been in the plans - and despite some similar applications leaving the pub unit vacant or later converting it to more flats; many have actually returned - the near-ish 1017978 The Traders returned after its building was flattened for flats.

For now, you can go to the existing pub, which takes up most of the space on the site - a telephone exchange and a bookies complete the vast bulk of the existing structures. 

Cheap pints are the main attraction here - the 5.90 I paid for Smithwicks isn't terrible; but there were flyers for fiver pints at various times throughout the week also; all meeting the regulations on promotions I hasten to add.

This was my first pub on a day of many buses, and I needed to go for my second fairly quickly so my pint was consumed rapidly to enable a quick escape, so my insights here are somewhat limited!

Monday 4 December 2023

December 2024 register update

Not a lot this month except a few new pins, one I've already done but not written up yet. There's also a lot of licence holder name changes, some potentially interesting; some utterly irrelevant and none of which give reliable data to say here. So its just the new ones.

New:

1019160 Hampton by Hilton, Chancery Street - opened some time ago with a residents bar licence but has upgraded to a pub licence

1020516 O'Regans, Fade Street - new pub, which I have already visited


Saturday 2 December 2023

S0234 Corrigans

This pub very much fell between two stools, or two roads more accurately, on my previous pub ticking missions. On a side road between the Rathmines and Ranelagh roads, each of which I've previous covered off, it never quite got ticked off before. (please try to avoid falling between two stools inside a pub)

A nice quiet pub, where I felt it would be polite to ask before plugging a charger in to one of the sockets about the lounge. With a decent atmosphere to sit and read my remaining bits of the paper in, I moved on to a second pint here - causing some confusion at the bar as I changed pints.

This confusion was likely compounded by how comparatively different my two choices were - the first pint was a Lagunitas, the second a Beamish. The affordability (my grandmothers oft-mentioned on here refusal to use the word 'cheap' still shines through!) of Beamish and the fact that I do actually enjoy it were proffered as my excuses - not that one was required, as the pint was being poured despite the barmans incredulity at the change.

The pub was relatively quiet during my visit; but I believe that its out of the way location does not prevent it being lively on busier nights.