The Comeback of Thatch - 1980/90s neo-rusticism

Dublin has a reasonable number of thatched pubs, for a fairly urban environment. There aren't any in the city centre, but there are plenty in suburbia.

However, they are almost all pastiche in style. The thatch is real - very real, very expensive and requiring very skilled trades to install and maintain it; but the pubs were not thatched originally, and some are or were new buildings.

 

As far as I can tell, the trend for this was started by the only thatched Dublin pub to have since been demolished (yet!), the S0440 Stillorgan Orchard, which was thatched in late 1988.

 

A number of other pubs were thatched over the next few years, as this trend proliferated. S0232 Glenside was thatched during a renovation in the 90s, with N0300 Lord Mayors in Swords being thatched during its extension renovation in 1992 (interestingly, lead by then the Douglas Wallace Opperman architects, the practice of the recently deceased Hugh Wallace). The Lord Mayors is to be demolished, removing another thatched pub from the county.

 

S0398 The Playwright in Blackrock - now a Dunnes Stores with a pub licence - was rebuilt completely in 1994, and thatched at the time. When converted to a Dunnes, the long unmaintained thatch was replaced with slates. 

 

All of these four - and potentially more Dublin pubs - were thatched by Kyran O'Grady, a first generation thatcher - something I believe is quite rare, as it is more often passed down families - who is still working today. 

 

N1128 Courtneys in Lucan is another pub which has a "modern" thatched roof, but I haven't been able to place when this went up, other than that it still had slates in 1970. This may be a 1980s/90s addition, or may be somewhat older.

 

On the slightly older scale, 1002618 Taylors Three Rock is reported as having had its thatched roof "added" in a review in October 1972, which indeed references there being extremely few other thatched pubs around - citing one in Galway as the only other.

 

 I  have severe suspicion about the integrity of S1583 An Poitín Stil in Rathcoole - this advertises itself in 1992 in a manner that makes me suspect it was first thatched then; and I cannot find a reference before them.

Now, not every Dublin thatched pub is a 20th century pastiche,.

S1580 The Rathcoole Inn's thatch, in comparison to basically everything else mentioned here, appears to be genuinely original - the trustworthy Heritage Houses of Ireland Facebook page speculates that it is "'possibly' Ireland's largest surviving historic thatched structure"

DG0478 The Man O War I think is possibly also genuine, has had some issues with its thatch recently - a fire which damaged it, but was not severe enough to force it to close for more than a day.

Revisit writeup because I feel like it: S1470 Swift

This is another pub I've been to a few times recently where the original writeup makes little sense to link to; and deserves a re-write.

Agnes Brownes was a very, very strange pub. Swift isn't. Swift is quite a normal pub for what this bit of D8 has become, with a normal pub interior, a normal pub crowd and normal enough drinks selection - there are a few Irish independent taps amongst the regular macros. They also do toasties.

I've been spending a lot more time amongst the pubs of D8 in recent months; for one main reason - Underdog is gone - and a few other ones. There's a reasonable variety, they're close to the bus route home, and are cheaper by taxi should I decide I don't want to deal with public transport for any reason. So I've been to Swift a few times and will almost certainly be back again.

Interestingly, this isn't the iteration of this pub that actually replaced Agnes Brownes. The extensive renovation happened before the pub opened as The Magnet, which I believe was connected to Luckys and The Circular; but changed to Swift after a relatively short period (and a change of operators).

Revisit writeup because I feel like it: N0020 Juno / Hera

The third in a not-really-a-series of doing a new writuep for somewhere that has both changed drastically since its original writeup, and which I am likely to end up in often enough that it needs to be explained.

Unfortunately, both the previous ones have shut down since I did them; but both were in "cursed premises" of sorts... and this one isn't. So I don't think I'm going to strangle it somehow.

I end up having pre-train drinks in this end of Drumcondra quite a bit, and they nearly always end up being N0082 McGraths. However, this replacement for the Red Parrot has started becoming a bit more common, particularly if I have a longer time to wait, or I'm approaching Drumcondra from the South to begin with. 

Juno offers the now fairly common mix of having quite a few craft taps, but not being a "craft beer bar" - there are macro products aplenty here, albeit those may be slightly selected for the cooler end of the market too. By that I mainly mean Beamish, which is having an odd revival both as a cheap pint in "normal" bars and as something people half my age drink in "cool" bars.

The Juno part of the setup here is the bar of the former Red Parrot; with the larger volume of the premises - the former lounge areas - being the Hera restaurant. I quite enjoyed a meal here, which has full availability of Juno drinks during it.

My Classics knowledge is fairly limited so I had to confirm that yes, Juno and Hera are the equivalent goddesses in Roman and Greek mythology; the Queen of the Gods. 

On the worry about cursing places with these writeups - Juno did in fact "close" briefly already in late 2024, leading to some actually quite nasty gleeful posts on Facebook from people who wanted a more traditional pub there; and some more respectful but still wrong claims about there "not being enough hipsters". 

This closure was for less than two weeks and I believe was solely related to getting Hera ready to open; nothing else. If it turns out doing this revisionary writeups is a curse I'll stop, I promise!

N1617 Gate Theatre

I warned last Summer that there would be quite a lot of theatres coming. This may be the last, for a little bit anyway - I currently have no more tickets booked!

The Gate opened on this site in 1930, but it is located in the 18th century New Assembly Rooms of the Rotunda Hospital (the Assembly Rooms, without the New, is N2205 Ambassador Theatre next door), and as an older theatre, has a more traditional bar, sited to the rear of the building and overlooking the carpark of the Rotunda Hospital. This makes it both older and yet younger than the remaining grand Victorian theatres in Dublin, comparing building fabric and operational history.

In addition to the "proper" bar, there is a smaller bar selling tea (in china cups), wine and soft drinks close to the main entrance of the auditorium. They also allow drinks in to the auditorium, the first Dublin theatre I have actually experienced that in, with an usher providing plastic glassware to decant at the entries to the auditorium. 

I don't review any of the plays I go to see on these ticks, but this one was quite good. And is still running for a bit by the time this writeup gets published, but based on the show seeming to be a total sellout the night I saw it, it may be sold out! 

Offshore Island Pubs of Ireland

I've written, on many occasions at this stage, about my family connections to Arranmore Island in Donegal; and how I only completed its 6 (remaining, of 8) licences in 2022, albeit the last remaining pub was one I had been in countless times as a kid.

Arranmore's 6 pubs is quite a lot for one island, and it has made me wonder about what other offshore (before someone comes and lists most of the pubs in Cork City...) island pubs there are. And also if I can actually tick all of those off too.

This is not a promise to do that. I might, but I'm not guaranteeing I'll do it it like I have with Dublin and also The Rosses. 

I'm going off the 2024-5 full licence file here, so there is a very high chance I'm missing somewhere, but I made a reference back to the 2010-11 file to try find any lost pubs too.

I'm going to start North and work my way counter-clockwise here, so places I've been mostly work their way to the top...  I am also only counting islands you still need a boat to get to - I may have an Achill great-grandfather, but you're basically mainlanders now!

An additional thing to note is that some islands have bars in community centres or social clubs that have club licences. These may be the only bar, or an additional one. I have never counted social club licences as they are unquantifiable - there is no register for them. Another island has a "bar" which I have only identified a restaurant licence for to date.

Tory

LEP397 Tory Island Hotel - I have eaten (as a child), but not drunk, here. This doesn't count as a tick.

Arranmore

LEO002 Neilys 
LEP013 Earlys Pier Bar
LEP014 Glen Hotel
LEP015 Owens Hotel
LEP431 Seaview / Smugglers Niteclub
1009262 Phil Bans

These are all visited, with those trading during the day on a specific day in 2022 linked above.

Clare Island

CBP109 Bay View Hotel - this appears to now be a private rental, with the bar possibly occasionally open
1003341 Clare Island Community Centre / Anchor Bar

Inishbofin

GAP910 Inishbofin House Hotel
GAP911 The Beach Bar
GAP912 Doonmore Hotel
GAP984 Dolphin Hotel

edit: I initially didn't find the licence for the Beach somehow, but then noticed the gap in the sequence and went looking

Inishmore

GAP524 Tigh Joe Mac's 
GAP526 Tigh Joe Watty
GAP527 The Bar, Kilronan 
GAP977 Aran Islands Hotel

The, ahem, gap in those licence numbers made me see if I had GAP525 in my archives - the Lucky Star in Kilronan appears just once in the 2010-11 register, and seems to have closed permanently in 2006, with irregular opening before

I also found GAP528, Tigh Fitz, in these old files - it seems to have been sold as a non-trading hotel with bar in 2021 and is now rental apartments, without a bar.

Inisheer 

GAP863 Inis Oirr Hotel - this is ticked off, twice, in ~2008 and again in ~2012
GAP535 Tigh Ruairí - this was ticked off in ~2012
GAP536 Tigh Ned

Inishmaan 

GAP534 Teach Ósta 

Those paying attention may have noticed a licence sequence with a big hole in it for the three Aran Islands. I have no records of GAP529-533 in any archived file for the last 15 years, but they may have existed. 

Bere

BYP084 Bere Island Hotel
BYP085 O'Sullivans, Rerrin 

Cape Clear

BYP193 Cotters
BYP470 Ciaran Danny Mike's 

Sherkin

BYP196 Jolly Roger
BYP468 Sherkin House Hotel - not open to the public at present

Rathlin

I belive there is one pub - McCuaigs - on Rathlin, but without equivalent data, I don't have licence numbers.

S3667 Project Arts Centre

Coincidental to finally getting this licence ticked off the list, I have been doing a dig through the archives of the Sunday Business Post, which covered the redevelopment of Temple Bar in great detail. I think there may be an article to be had out of that; but without ruining that - this is a ~2000 build, purpose-built arts space, on the site of a more ramshackle former home for Project. 

As such, it doesn't have the classic bars of some of the older Dublin theatres I have visited; but instead it has an actually fairly large (compared to the size of the auditorium), more modern mixed area of low and high tables, plus a bar that primarily serves beers from O'Haras - a good choice for a venue that promotes Irish creativity.  

The bar is open after shows, something theatres are allowed to; but rarely actually do. We decided to make use of this, and got to see almost (or perhaps all) the entire cast of the show pop in for drinks themselves. I suspect this isn't something actors would want to do in more traditional theatres, and with some of the cast of the performance I was seeing being quite well known, I suspect it's probably an enjoyable benefit of this venue.

Project is 60 next year - with over 50 years on this site -  which I presume will lead to much celebration.

1022775 Díon

The pubstaurant to beat all Dublin pubstaurants, this vast premises takes the top two floors of the former Central Bank building on Dame Street; and is - currently if not going to eternally be - a bookings required, eating required setup; but one which holds a pub licence for the usual pubstaurant reasons.

I had been in this space before, but not this premises - I was on the last ever public tour of the old Central Bank - the late afternoon, last day of Open House tours in the year they were moving to the new building on North Wall. They did actually feed us - something that has happened on a few Open House tours where the building owner has a canteen (AIB Bankcentre was another); but this was in the canteen in the other building of the complex, not in the boardrooms and similar that once occupied the upper floors.

The opening of Díon was heavily delayed by the financial troubles of the fitout company that was originally working on it, and the fitout is of a very high quality. The food was fine, but the beer menu not so - a common problem with pubstaurants, even those of such a huge scale.

It's definitely worth going here at least once, to see the views. The food may bring you back, but I'd prefer places with pub licences to seem more like pubs!