Wednesday 31 May 2023

1018129 The Wren

Did I really need to visit this new hotel licence, seeing as I had been at many nights in the predecessor venue, the stripped out shell of a theatre that had a fairly short life? ALT/Hangar had a licence (1009202), but it was a theatre licence - and The Wren has a hotel publicans licence.

Also, it ended up being quite easy to get in to the bar, with the bar being directly accessible from the street, albeit it is underground. So I decided I did need to visit - had it been impractical to get in I might have decided not! Its my list, after all.

The barman was quite willing to tell me the times that they are open for outside drinkers - even though it was many hours before the closing time - as they are very willing to have outside drinkers in; but you may be slightly surprised by the drinks offering. As there's no taps. And its quite expensive.

Another oddity is that there is a single combined gents and accessible toilet, meaning that there will be queues if there's a lot of outside drinkers in - hotel residents might be tempted to go back to use their own bathroom I guess.

Sunday 28 May 2023

1019774 disndat / Rezz

A bar decorated with the oddest range of salvage yard decor I think I've ever seen, and also retaining the remains of some set dressing from Penny Dreadful.


This is the bar of a hotel, Rezz, who already have a branch in Cork. Its more pub-like than many hotel bars, and now falls under my "lucky pub" superstition rules, having seen Brighton beat Chelsea there. 

That near resemblance to a normal pub, and location beside some of the cities more popular pubs, means this place will probably be a goldmine going forward.

Friday 26 May 2023

N0120 Cock and Bull

A vast pub, once the kingpin of Guinness's chain of pubs; and also once the holder of one of the worst pub nicknames in Dublin - the former Whiff o'Shit, sorry, Sheaf of Wheat is now the Cock and Bull. 

The Cock and Bull itself is part of a former mini-chain, having had a branch in Raheny in what is now N0171 Manhattan. But the pub stands alone, at least in name, now.

I had bailed on my previous pub to get food, and ended up buying a ridiculously large burger here - and a very large proportion of the other customers were also eating. The beer offerings had one, erm, something - this is a while ago, and you'll shortly see why I can't remember - interesting on; but they didn't actually have it in stock. That whatever it was was out of stock may be a sign that it sells well; or that it doesn't sell at all and the tap is just left there.

The food was decent, albeit I could probably have eaten anything by this stage. I would have preferred a bit more of a distinction of the areas inside the pub - it has the suburban barn format.

Thursday 25 May 2023

N0311 Balgriffin Inn

I don't like pubs with bouncers on during the day. I particularly don't like when it is actually bouncers at that - there were two here. There may be some "customers" they want to keep away, going on reports of abuse meted out to the owner. Anyway, I got allowed through, and went through the first room, which is basically a waiting area for collecting take-out, in to the lounge within.

Inside felt a lot more welcoming than the doorway did, but there weren't any seats at tables available and I wanted to eat - so I was on the next bus past after knocking a Smithwicks.

Wednesday 17 May 2023

1000393 Gilbert and Wright

I'm becoming increasingly convinced that the Wright Group has some form of Celtic Tiger Time Machine fitted to their premises - as, once again, I find myself in somewhere that seems to have barely changed since some time shortly after the smoking ban came in; and which was again somewhat cheaper than the nearby pubs despite trying to put off a "classier" image.

Gilbert & Wright was once a sub-brand of the Wright Group, and indeed was actually franchisable at the time - so I'm not sure how many of the peak of four locations were actually run by the Wrights.

Malahide is the last branch standing. The Swords branch was re-absorbed in to the main Wrights there - the location of my previous time warp experience; the Dun Laoghaire branch has been multiply rebranded and is now S0269 Buck Mulligans; and the Clontarf branch was also rebranded but has since closed down.

If I had reason to be going out in Malahide frequently, I'd prefer Gibneys for being most like a normal pub, but my wallet would prefer here.

Tuesday 16 May 2023

1013257 Gibneys

My wallet cannae take it anymore - Gibney's gets within 5c of hitting the rarely breached 8 quid mark for a pint. Not a Guinness - that's something slightly saner - but its still a pint of a commonly available beer. 

Despite the initial daylight robbery at the bar, this is a decent pub - a warren of interconnected spaces of various sizes, where I was able to find a table to read the paper despite the pub being quite busy.

My second, different, pint was a bit cheaper and I would have gone for it had it been on the first bar - there are multiple serving areas here along the length of the pub.

The big size of the pub probably helped with the clientele mix - confused tourists, regulars who knew all the bar staff by name, locals who knew what seats were good to watch the racing and so on. 

Gibneys is a family run pub, something that isn't as common in Dublin anymore; and is part of a family of pubs as such - they have a branch in London, and also one just over the county border in Gormanston, Meath.

Monday 15 May 2023

N0315 Fowlers

A nice suburban pub with multiple distinct areas, but the prices, oh the prices...

The pedestrianised New Street looks fantastic in good weather, and needs to be protected from SUV drivers who want a shortcut; but I opted for an inside seat - sunburn from the summer of outdoor dining did enough damage and I didn't think to slather myself in sunscreen before leaving the house.

The interior of the pub is very nicely decorated; and their Instagram still boasts about winning a design award in 2012 - I'd suspect there's been more than a few quid spent since then. 

However, after the price shock of Duffys for the previous pint, I was only vaguely expecting to have to shell out even more here. However, I did. This was never going to be a cheap ticking trip, but I didn't expect it to be that expensive!


Friday 12 May 2023

Guinnesses Adventures in Pub-land: Murtagh Properties Limited

I've written before about the paucity of tied houses in Dublin (but they did exist, despite many writings that they didn't go beyond Cork); and also have a list of Dublin's bars that are either brewpubs, taprooms, or owned by a brewery. 

A name you don't see on those articles, except in its brand home / tourism functions, is Guinness. Guinness never operated tied houses in Ireland; or in the UK - but they did own pubs, and even offered contracted management services for bars elsewhere. 

These pubs were run directly by Guinness (well, a group company - more later). I'm not aware of any pubs being built new - all the pubs were bought - and the management services seem to have been a later addition (edit: I had initially misinterpreted the pub in Shannon as being a bar in Shannon Airport; and forgot to edit this bit of the text)

This article is going to give some of the history of this, and will list all their pub operations I've discovered in Ireland - not just those in Dublin as would normally be the limiting factor.

The "why" behind Guinness doing this isn't something I can explain, as there is no obvious purpose - these pubs continued to sell drink by other breweries. But I'm going to make two guesses anyway.

That it was just an investment opportunity in a business they understood is possible - the pubs were operated by a subsidiary company, Murtagh Properties (a company that later renamed to Guinness Storehouse Limited), founded in 1963 and dissolved in 2019.

Additionally, some of their early purchases are in areas where the Guinness brand may not have been particularly strong - former Macardle Moore / Great Northern strongholds and Cork, which still had its two independent breweries at the time. Some influence over the market may have been desirable here, even if the pubs were not tied houses.

Murtagh first turn up in the newspaper archives in July 1966, as the licensee for the Crossroads Tavern near Shannon Airport. This may not have been their first endeavour, as articles by January 1967 refer to them as already owning Cherrytree in Walkinstown - which they retained until the very end.

Newspaper reports cited 12 pubs in ownership by 1970, 6 in Dublin and 6 outside. This figure of 12 gets referenced a lot as if it was a static number, but there were sales and purchases along the way.

The Murtagh Properties company was also used to acquire other business, such as the bottling operations of SV Delahunt of Wicklow in 1971. Guinness acquired many of its larger bottlers as it moved away from independent bottling, and some of these sites still exist as regional depots for Diageo to this day. Murtagh seems to have been used as a holding company for these, as it is also mentioned as owning the Connacht Mineral Water Company in 1985.

They were also involved in a court case in 1971 against the Barmans Union (INUVGATA) to try prevent pickets - pickets placed against the employment of women! This court case eventually lead to that ban being overturned, as detailed in my article on women behind the bar. It should be noted the pub companies were doing this as they could still openly pay women less than men, rather than out of feminism...

In 1972, they made a rejected bid to buy the JG Mooney pub chain; with the Belton pub chain and Bank of Ireland's investment division as partners. Mooneys and Beltons eventual demise is documented elsewhere here. 

Undeterred by that - or, probably, just doing it at the same time anyway - they bought a controlling stake in two Northern Irish pub chains, Croft Inns and Magills, for £1m in late 1972 - giving them 22 pubs and hotels in Northern Ireland. These were not under the auspices of Murtagh Properties, but are worth mentioning as part of the overall picture.

The Dublin pubs were generally vast premises, but the Cork pubs were often quite small. One, Kealys, was on a side-street which no longer exists; and was sold off relatively early (1976) to a new owner, who also bought out the original Murphys leasehold, for it had once been a tied house of Murphys. The Kealy family that sold it moved to Dublin.

The number of pubs slowly fell over time - albeit they continued to buy pubs or take on management contracts until the early 1990s; and also spent considerable money on upkeep. There are constant planning notices for extensions or changes, and the management of the firm were quoted as stating that publicans should make continuous, small spends on improvements. The firm also entered the occasional/temporary bar market, today a speciality of the Madigan Group.

Eventually, their interest in this business reached the end of the road in the Republic in 1998, when the remaining three properties were put on the market. They also prepared to hand back their management contracts for the bars at the students unions in Maynooth and UCD at this time. The final licence transfer notice, for the Clonsilla Inn's new owner, is published in 1999.

The Northern Irish arm of the parent firm continued to buy pubs until at least 2000 but appears to have exited the market by 2002. Brewery involved in pub ownership, or at least control of licences, is still strong in the Northern Irish market, so it is understandable that they may have wanted to hang on there for longer.

List of ROI premises with known years (pubs may have been in Guinness ownership earlier and/or later than these - sold refers to a known sale date):

Dublin:
S1478 Cherrytree, Walkinstown - 1967 - 1998 (sold)
N0758 Clonsilla Inn, Clonsilla - 1970 - 1998 (sold)
1008947 Liffey Bar Eden Quay - 1972 - 1989 (sold) (now the Wiley Fox)
N0120 Sheaf of Wheat, Coolock - 1966 - 1998 (sold) (now the Cock and Bull)
N1125 Youngs, Ballyfermot - 1969 - gone by 1981 
S1536 Dohertys, Harolds Cross - 1973 - gone by 1990 (latterly Rosie O'Gradys and since demolished)
S0173 Searsons, Baggot Street - 1991 - 1996 - (held the lease, not ownership)
Management:
S0056 The Bailey, Duke Street - 1990 - 1995 (contract ceased when Brown Thomas sold the building)
SU bar, UCD - 1992 - 1998 (returned contract)
Trinity Ball temporary bar - 1992 - 1993

Elsewhere:
Crossroads Tavern, Shannon - 1966 - 1996 (sold)
Lisdoo Arms, Dundalk - 1966 - 1968 (sold)
Marlboro, Marlborough Street, Cork - 1967 - pre 1994
John J Barry, 2 Pembroke Street, Cork - 1967 - pre 1985
Market Tavern, Angelsea Street, Cork - 1970 - 1993 (sold)
Top Of The Hill, Gurranabraher Cork - 1972 - 1993
Kealys, Faulkners Lane, Cork - 1972 - 1976 (sold)
The Mountain, Cork - 1972 - 1980 (gone by 1985)
Management:
SU bar, Maynooth - 1994 1998 (returned contract - Murtagh Properties lent £350k towards construction in return for this contract)

N0314 Duffys

If you have a common Irish surname, you are unlikely to have much trouble finding a pub with your name on it.

Mine is common - but also very region-specific - so before this visit, I had never actually been in a pub with my surname above the door.

This seemed to be a fairly food-and-family oriented pub, as is common in suburbia. Prices were high, but they were but an introduction to what I was going to pay afterwards - Malahide isn't cheap, and the publicans make damn sure you know that.

S1473 Barn House

There are some other visitors-of-pubs that have written about this place and made it sound exceptionally unwelcoming, rough, and bordering on too dangerous to visit.

It isn't. I do wonder whether the difference was visiting in a group (them) versus alone (me). There aren't many things in life where you think it may be safer to go alone; but pub goers (and/or staff) often find groups of unknown men arriving to be more concerning than one on their own.

Admittedly, there was a shooting here, nine years ago; but this has happened in "nice" pubs before too.

Anyway, pub-ticking writeups are usually based on one visit (and hopefully always based on an actual visit...); but absolutely nothing untoward occurred during mine.

Wednesday 10 May 2023

S1446 Lowes

I should really have written up Lowes earlier, as I know they follow me on various platforms... but I didn't. And it is three months ago now, so my memories are getting very very faded.

A fairly small, traditional local Dubs pub which, according to my pub-ticking colleagues over at Dublin By Pub is one of those rare cases of a pub that has moved - from a relatively long distance away up near St Patricks Cathedral.

Pubs fine. If I don't remember much, that is nearly always a good thing.

Tuesday 9 May 2023

S0079 Harold House

A friendly, traditional local Dub pub. Although it is a tad odd to have the regulars recommending another pub to you while you're drinking somewhere.

There was a musician performing here when I arrived, and I possibly sat a tad close to them for someone who wasn't actually there to listen to them - but this is what lead to the conversation with the table beside me. 

What could have been misinterpreted as an inquisition (more of this in a later review, albeit its just more snark on the idea of it) about why I was there - but was actually just interest at seeing someone new - lead to showing a table of regulars the Google Maps overlay version of my map on my phone, and confirming which other nearby pubs I had or hadn't been to.

This resulted in some confusion, as I was being told how great "the cafe bar" is. I had no idea what this was, and their description of location wasn't fantastic... but when going to get dinner in Pinheads afterwards (a third time this has happened on a pub-bagging trip), I noticed that S1437 Leonards Corner has "Cafe Bar" on its facade; and is somewhat close to the inaccurate description of location I was being given - yes, people with a few pints taken may find it hard to communicate "up and across the road" to someone else with a few pints taken!

Pint was reasonably cheap, from memory; and dropped to the table after ordering at the bar.

Saturday 6 May 2023

S0247 Peggy Kelly's

This was meant to be my first pub of the day, but was running its conventional Monday hours, hence I jumped off the bus on the way back after confirming that I could see it was open. 

I quite liked this pub; and that wasn't just from the Kinnegar on tap, or the oddly misplaced book on the shelf of the in-pub library.



Busy enough, but I got a decent enough table - a weirdly running theme of the day.

The pub has a substantial enough, wine focused off-licence attached; one that often turns up in the recommended outlets for various wine recommendations in newspapers at that.

Thursday 4 May 2023

The Baileys Icon Centre

As part of the overall attempt to visit Every Pub in Dublin, I need to maintain a list of the places that actually have pub or pub-adjacent licences. 

This list leaves me with a few severely problematic licences - from pubs that have become off-licences (in the case of the Dunnes on Newtownpark Avenue, I actually had a pint there when it was still a pub - but the un-named off-licence on Parnell Street still eludes me) - to pubs that haven't been open in decades like Dolly Heffernans. But there's one licence in particular that is sitting unused for the guts of 20 years now, and has a particularly interesting history.

S3543 - The Icon Centre, Leopardstown; as its Register entry calls it, is renewed every year without fail; but unless a current planning appeal goes through and is acted on, it is highly unlikely I will ever get to drink there. And, as time marches on, the information I was able to find about it a few years ago is continuing to vanish off the 'net, so I should document it while I can

In the late 1990s, Diageo decided that they needed a "visitor experience" for their cream liquer brand Baileys. They had the ever successful Guinness Storehouse under their belt, and presumably felt that this beloved brand had similar powers to attract tourists - possibly forgetting that is mostly beloved at Christmas, and not peak tourist season!

As Baileys was invented by a marketer in London (I strongly recommend getting that book, albeit it covers nothing relevant to this article); there wasn't an obvious home for it - so, bafflingly, it was decided to put the visitor centre out at Leopardstown Racecourse. 

A new building was built to the North of the existing racecourse structures, and was initially liquor licenced in December 1998; and is cited as having cost anywhere from £6.5m (€8.25m) to  £11-11.5m (~€14-14.6m) to construct and fit out; the latter figure being far more commonly referenced.

The name may suggest something like the Newbridge Museum of Style Icons, but based on contemporary documents, what you got was instead a trip through a rather twee idealised Ireland.

"It is Ireland now and Ireland then. It is a tribute to our Celtic roots, a window on our global future. It is town and country, river and sea" went the press release, according to an extract in the Herald on April 15, 1999; as the centre opened to the public.

Five levels of 'attraction', three bars, a Kilkenny store and restaurants filled out the ~1850sqm. But nobody cared.

It was close to inaccessible - the Luas extension which runs near the Racecourse would not open 2010; and in a case of the bitrot of info about this I referenced before, I'm fairly sure I have seen photos of the fleet of Dublin Bus operated, single-decker buses used to bring people from the City Centre out to the Icon Centre - but I can't find them now; but they did exist - at a significant cost to the operators.

edit: Twitter, or a twitter user more accurately, delivers by directing me to this MyDublinBus photo of one of the two buses


The centre was constantly hiring throughout 1999, and there were some reports of various conferences being held there throughout 1999 and 2000, including its hosting of the finals the Euro-Toques Young Chef of the Year; and also the official launch of my former employers, Q102 (then known as Lite FM) in May 2000. But conferences were not going to be the bread and butter of a visitor attraction.

So, almost inevitably, 2001 started with the announcement that it was closing down. The Icon Centre had all of 20 months of public opening.

One of the last public events there was the launch of the Jordan EJ11 F1 car, which performed better than expected and brought Jordan to 4th in the constructors championship - not in fitting with the performance of the centre!

Despite this failure, Sarner, the design consultants behind the Icon Centre seem to still be quite proud of their work, providing the only easily accessible images of the interior of the attraction; and still referencing it in advertisements for their services as late as the April 2016 issue of the World of Hospitality magazine.

After closure, The Rocksy nightclub operated from here for a few years; another victim of the bit-rot that happens to older online resources - particularly as any early social media stuff is now totally gone. But the liquor licence hasn't been used since.

McGuirks Golf currently occupy part of the structure, and the racecourse have sought to convert the rest back to some form of recreational use, retaining alcohol sales - that being the issue behind the current planning appeal.

Tuesday 2 May 2023

May 2023 Licence Update

Just the one change of note this month:

Additions:

1019974 RezzD2/Disndat - new hotel, which I've already drunk in but haven't written up yet.